Cezanne vs Bhave vs Nanoplasty, A Melbourne Smoothing Comparison
Three Smoothing Treatments, Three Very Different Outcomes
Walk into any Melbourne salon in February and someone at the basin will be asking about smoothing. Humidity climbs, the frizz halo returns, and suddenly every client wants to know whether Cezanne, Bhave or nanoplasty is the one that finally fixes it. The honest answer is that all three work, and none of them are the same service, and the wrong one on the wrong hair is a waste of money.
At Kohort we sit on Bridge Road in Richmond, about seven minutes from the Yarra and five minutes from the train out to Hawthorn, and our smoothing clients come in from Fitzroy, Collingwood, South Yarra, Cremorne and Abbotsford. Most of them have heard three different brand names from three different friends, and none of them are sure which one is safe, which one actually lasts, and which one is going to leave them flatter than they wanted. This guide is the full consultation we run, written down.
By the end of it you will know which treatment works on which hair type, how much time you need to set aside, what the aftercare actually looks like in Melbourne summer, and which of our stylists to book with.
The Direct Comparison, Up Front
Here is what the three treatments actually are, and what they do.
| Treatment | What it is | Main active | Frizz reduction | Straightening effect | Time in chair | Lasts | Downtime after | Starting price at Kohort |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cezanne Classic | Amino acid based smoothing system | Sericin and keratin amino acids, glyoxylic acid derivative | Strong | Softens wave, does not fully straighten | 2 to 3 hours | 3 to 5 months | None, wash same day | From $300 |
| Bhave Keratin | Keratin smoothing treatment, formaldehyde free | Hydrolysed wheat and keratin proteins | Very strong | Significant straightening of frizz and wave | 2.5 to 3.5 hours | 3 to 6 months | 48 hours no washing, no ties, no clips | From $250 |
| Nanoplasty | Protein reconstruction and smoothing hybrid | Amino acids, hydrolysed collagen, tannic acid | Very strong | Strong smoothing, keeps movement | 3 to 4 hours | 4 to 8 months | 24 to 48 hours, depending on brand | From $350 |
All three are formaldehyde free at Kohort. We do not use traditional Brazilian Blowout style formulas that release formaldehyde gas during the flat iron seal. That has not been part of our menu and it will not be.
The short answer by hair type
- Fine to medium hair with frizz but you still want movement, book Cezanne.
- Coarse, dense, frizzy hair that refuses to dry smooth, book Bhave.
- Damaged, colour treated or over-processed hair that needs repair plus smoothing, book nanoplasty.
Cezanne, The One For People Who Do Not Want To Go Flat
Cezanne uses a glyoxylic acid derivative alongside keratin amino acids. The cuticle opens, the actives deposit, the flat iron seals, and the hair becomes smoother without losing its natural shape. That is the part most clients get wrong. Cezanne is not a straightening service. It is a frizz reducer with a softening effect on wave.
Who Cezanne actually suits
- You have naturally wavy or lightly curly hair and you want to keep some of that shape.
- Your hair goes frizzy in Melbourne humidity but you love how it sits when you leave the blow dry chair.
- You want to cut your blow dry time from 40 minutes to 15 minutes.
- You colour your hair and you want a smoothing service that does not fight with your toner.
Who Cezanne does not suit
- You want stick-straight hair. You will not get it with Cezanne.
- You have very coarse, dense Type 4 curls. Cezanne will relax them slightly but you will still have frizz.
- You want a treatment that lasts six to eight months. Cezanne sits at three to five.
Cezanne can be washed the same day. That matters if you are flying out of Tullamarine the next morning or you have a wedding on Saturday and your appointment is on Friday.
Bhave, The Australian Made Workhorse
Bhave is an Australian keratin system built specifically for humid climates. The formula is formaldehyde free and relies on hydrolysed keratin and wheat proteins to coat the hair, smooth the cuticle, and lock in a sleeker surface. It is the treatment we reach for most often on coarse, dense, frizz-prone hair where the client genuinely wants a straighter finish.
The trade off is downtime. After a Bhave treatment you leave the salon with a 48 hour window where you cannot wash, cannot tie the hair back, cannot wear a clip that leaves a dent, cannot tuck it behind your ears with a grip. For 48 hours you treat your hair like it is setting. That is not negotiable. The keratin is still curing and any kink you put in the hair sets into the treatment.
Who Bhave suits
- You spend all summer in the car park of the Tan battling a frizz halo.
- You straighten your hair five days a week and the GHD is winning.
- You want a softer, silkier finish and you do not mind losing a bit of wave.
- You have dense, resistant hair that shrugs off lighter smoothing services.
Who Bhave does not suit
- You work out daily and cannot go 48 hours without washing.
- You love your natural curl pattern and want to keep it.
- You have very fine hair that goes flat easily. Bhave can weigh fine hair down.
Nanoplasty, The Repair-First Smoothing Treatment
Nanoplasty is the newest of the three in Australia and the most misunderstood. The formula uses tannic acid (a plant derived acid from sources like bark and oak), hydrolysed collagen and amino acids to rebuild the internal structure of the hair while smoothing the surface. Because it is acidic rather than alkaline, it does not open the cuticle the way a traditional keratin does. It seals it.
That is why nanoplasty sits at the top of the price range. It is doing two jobs at once, repair and smoothing, and the results last longer than either Cezanne or Bhave on most hair types.
Who nanoplasty suits
- You have had balayage, foils, bleach, or colour correction and your hair feels like straw.
- You have been flat ironing daily for a decade and the ends are fried.
- You want the longest lasting result for the price, four to eight months is realistic.
- You want a smooth, shiny finish but you also want your hair to feel stronger, not just look smoother.
Who nanoplasty does not suit
- You have completely virgin, healthy, undamaged hair. You are not getting the full value of the repair.
- You want instant dead-straight hair. Nanoplasty smooths and softens, it does not iron out.
- You are sensitive to strong scents. Tannic acid based formulas can smell intense during the service.
How To Pick, A Real Decision Framework
If you are still unsure, run through these in order.
1. Do you want to keep your wave or curl? If yes, Cezanne. If no, keep reading.
2. Is your hair damaged, bleached, colour treated or compromised? If yes, nanoplasty.
3. Do you have coarse, dense, resistant hair that needs a serious smoothing? If yes, Bhave.
4. Do you have a flight, a wedding or an event within 48 hours? Cezanne is the only one of the three you can wash same day.
5. Is budget your top priority? Bhave starts at $250, Cezanne at $300, nanoplasty at $350. All three deliver value at different price points.
6. Do you want the longest lasting result? Nanoplasty wins at four to eight months.
If two or more of these apply, book a free 15 minute consultation and we will pick with you in person. Hair that has been box dyed, henna treated, or had other keratin services in the past changes the equation, and we want to see it before we quote.
Melbourne Humidity, Water And What Smoothing Actually Solves
Melbourne is not Brisbane, but anyone who lives here knows the city has its own humidity signature. Late December through February, the Yarra side of Richmond, Burnley and Abbotsford sits at humidity levels that turn any unsmoothed wave into frizz within ten minutes of stepping outside. Clients who live near the river, walk home through Fitzroy Gardens, or run the Tan after work deal with the same issue. The air is full of moisture and your hair is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs that moisture, swells, and frizzes.
Smoothing treatments work by coating the hair and sealing the cuticle, which gives the fibre a stronger barrier against humidity. That is why people who get a smoothing treatment before summer notice the biggest difference. Cezanne is enough for a Fitzroy North creative who wears her waves loose, Bhave is the answer for a South Yarra client whose blow dry needs to survive a hot walk up Toorak Road, and nanoplasty is the pick for a Collingwood client whose bleached lengths are tired of the fight.
Melbourne water adds another layer. The inner-east suburbs sit at around 40 to 60 ppm of calcium carbonate. Technically soft water, but mineral buildup after years of showers dulls tone, coats the cuticle, and reduces the effectiveness of any smoothing treatment. That is why we recommend an Olaplex Chelating Treatment or L'Oréal Metal Detox as a pre-smoothing service on any client who has been colouring their hair for more than two years. Strip the metals first, smooth second, and the treatment takes deeper and lasts longer.
Clients coming in from Cremorne, South Yarra or Prahran often tell us they had keratin at another salon and it faded in six weeks. Nine times out of ten, that was a mineral buildup issue the previous stylist did not address.
What To Ask Before You Book, And The Red Flags
Smoothing is a chemical service. It is safe when done properly, but there are questions you should ask every salon before you book.
1. Is the product formaldehyde free? At Kohort the answer is yes for all three treatments on our menu. If a salon cannot give you a straight answer, walk out.
2. How is the service ventilated? Even formaldehyde free smoothing releases fumes during the flat iron phase. A proper salon has ventilation.
3. Will you patch test if I have had reactions to other chemical services? Any credible stylist will say yes.
4. Will you use a bond builder like K18 Molecular Repair or Olaplex Bonding Treatment during the service? For damaged hair, the answer should be yes.
5. How do you adjust the formula for my hair type? If the answer is "we do the same process for everyone", that is a red flag.
6. How long have you personally been doing smoothing treatments? The stylist matters more than the brand. Smoothing is a skill built over hundreds of heads.
At Kohort, Grace and Elodie both specialise in smoothing. Grace leads on Bhave and nanoplasty work, Elodie brings a glass-smooth finish that works beautifully with colour treated hair. Both of them will walk you through the process at consultation and tell you honestly if smoothing is the wrong service for what you want. You can book a free 15 minute chat through our keratin smoothing or nanoplasty service pages.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Cezanne or Bhave better for frizz?
Bhave gives stronger frizz control and a straighter finish. Cezanne reduces frizz while keeping natural wave. If you want to keep shape and movement, pick Cezanne. If you want the flattest, sleekest result, pick Bhave.
Is nanoplasty safe?
Yes, nanoplasty at Kohort is formaldehyde free and uses tannic acid, amino acids and hydrolysed collagen. It is considered one of the safer smoothing categories on the market because it seals the cuticle rather than forcing it open. As with any chemical service, tell your stylist about allergies or past reactions.
How long does a keratin smoothing last in Melbourne summer?
Bhave keratin lasts three to six months on average, Cezanne three to five, and nanoplasty four to eight. Melbourne humidity is tough on smoothing but sulphate free shampoo, a silk pillowcase and avoiding chlorine pools will stretch the result out.
Can I colour my hair after a smoothing treatment?
Yes, but wait at least two weeks after Bhave, one week after Cezanne, and two weeks after nanoplasty. Your colourist will want to know you have had a smoothing service because it affects how toner and lightener behave on the hair.
Which smoothing treatment is best for bleached or damaged hair?
Nanoplasty. The tannic acid and hydrolysed collagen rebuild the internal structure of the hair at the same time as smoothing the cuticle. For heavily compromised hair it is the only smoothing category we recommend.
Can I wash my hair the same day as Cezanne?
Yes. Cezanne is the only one of the three that allows same day washing. That makes it the pick for anyone flying, attending an event, or unable to commit to 48 hours of no washing.
Will smoothing make my hair fall out?
Smoothing treatments do not cause hair loss when performed correctly with formaldehyde free systems. If you notice shedding after a treatment, it is usually because long strands that were already loose are being released during the washing and blow drying process.
How often can I get smoothing treatments?
Every three to six months depending on the treatment. We recommend waiting until at least 70 percent of the previous treatment has faded before re-doing it, otherwise you end up with overlap zones where the hair feels different.
Do smoothing treatments damage your hair?
Formaldehyde free smoothing treatments coat and seal rather than break bonds. When performed by a trained stylist with a bond builder like K18 or Olaplex included, hair integrity is maintained or improved. The damage risk comes from poorly trained application and high iron temperatures.
Which smoothing lasts the longest?
Nanoplasty. Four to eight months on most hair types, compared to three to six for Bhave and three to five for Cezanne.
Can I do a bonding treatment with my smoothing?
Yes, we often pair K18 Molecular Repair or Olaplex Bonding Treatment with a smoothing service, especially on colour treated hair. The bond builder repairs internal damage and the smoothing treatment seals the cuticle, which gives a better combined result than either alone.
Is Bhave Australian made?
Yes, Bhave is an Australian brand formulated for humid climates. That is part of why we keep it on our menu at Kohort, it is built for the exact conditions our clients deal with every summer.
Related Services at Kohort
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Book The Right Smoothing For Your Hair
If you have read this far and you are still not sure, book a consultation. It is free, it takes 15 minutes, and it saves you from paying for a smoothing treatment that does not suit your hair.
The goal of any smoothing service is not to turn your hair into someone else's. It is to give you back the time you spend fighting frizz, to let your blow dry last longer, and to let you walk from South Yarra to Richmond on a humid February afternoon without watching your hair puff out before you get to Church Street.
Grace and Elodie handle the bulk of our smoothing work at Kohort. Grace leads on Bhave and nanoplasty, Elodie specialises in smoothing on colour treated hair. Book through our keratin smoothing or nanoplasty service pages, or read about our full hair treatment menu if you want to build a bond builder or shine treatment into the same appointment.
Smoothing is the service that pays itself back in saved time. Pick the right one, and you stop thinking about frizz for six months.