How Often Should You Really Wash Coloured Hair?
Most people with coloured hair wash too often. Two to three times a week is the sweet spot for most colour-treated hair, though the exact answer depends on your scalp type, your colour and how you live. The bigger issue is not just frequency, it is technique and product choice. Washing correctly with the right shampoo does far less damage to your colour than washing frequently with the wrong one.
I am Sheridan, a lived-in colour and blonde specialist at KOHORT in Richmond. If there is one piece of advice I give almost every client before they leave the chair, it is this: wash your hair less. Not because washing is inherently bad, but because most people with coloured hair are doing it more than their colour needs, often out of habit rather than necessity.
The gap between "my hair is dirty" and "my scalp actually needs cleaning" is larger than most people realise. And your colour pays the price every time you bridge it unnecessarily.
Why does washing fade coloured hair?
To understand why frequency matters, it helps to understand what happens to colour molecules when you shampoo. Hair colour, particularly permanent colour and lightening, works by depositing pigment molecules inside the cortex of the hair shaft. Toners and glosses deposit pigment on and just inside the cuticle. Washing opens the cuticle slightly, and water plus shampoo physically pushes some of those molecules out every time.
The rate of fade is not constant. It accelerates significantly in the first few washes after a colour service, when the cuticle is still slightly open and the pigment is at its most vulnerable. After the first week or two, fade slows. This is why the advice to wait 48 to 72 hours before your first wash after colour is genuinely worth following, not marketing.
On top of pigment loss, frequent washing also strips the natural oils that protect the hair's surface. Oily hair can look dull and limp, but hair that is over-cleansed loses the very thing that makes colour look vibrant and healthy between visits. Stripped, dry hair looks faded even when the pigment is technically still there.
So what is the right number?
There is no single universal answer, which I know is frustrating. But here is a practical guide based on scalp type:
| Scalp type | Suggested wash frequency | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Normal to dry scalp | 2 times per week | Hair stays fresh for longer; prioritise a good conditioner mid-lengths to ends |
| Oily scalp | 2 to 3 times per week | Resist the urge to wash daily; you may be making oiliness worse |
| Fine, flat hair | 2 to 3 times per week | Fine hair picks up oil faster visually; a scalp-targeted shampoo helps |
| Thick or coarse hair | 1 to 2 times per week | Thick hair retains moisture better; washing too often strips it aggressively |
| Heavily bleached or lifted hair | 2 times per week maximum | Bleached hair is more porous and loses pigment faster per wash |
If you are currently washing every day or every other day, the idea of cutting to twice a week can feel impossible. It usually takes two to three weeks for your scalp to recalibrate. During the transition, oiliness may feel worse before it gets better. That is your scalp catching up after years of having its oil production disrupted by frequent stripping. Stay with it.
Does the type of colour you have change the answer?
Yes, meaningfully.
- Balayage and lived-in colour. These are designed to grow out gracefully, which means less frequent maintenance at the salon. But they still fade between visits. Washing twice a week with a sulphate-free shampoo is the single biggest thing you can do to stretch the life of your colour. I wrote about maintaining balayage between appointments in more detail at our post on how to maintain balayage between appointments.
- Glosses and toners. These fade the fastest because the pigment sits closer to the surface. If you have had a toner at your last appointment and want it to last, two washes per week is the ceiling. More than that and you will be back in asking why your blonde has gone warm before your next colour is due.
- Vivids and fashion colours. These fade extremely fast regardless of washing frequency. If you are running a pink or a teal, keep washing to an absolute minimum and use a colour-depositing conditioner to top up the tone between visits.
- Permanent colour on brunette or dark hair. Tends to hold better per wash than blonde, but the overall principle still applies. Less washing, more longevity.
What about the water itself?
Melbourne's tap water is relatively soft compared to parts of the country, but mineral build-up is still a factor if you are washing frequently. Hard water deposits minerals on the hair shaft and makes colour look duller and brassier over time. If you are travelling interstate or overseas to areas with harder water, you may notice your colour looking different within days. This is one of the reasons L'Oréal Metal Detox is a standard pre-treatment for many colour services, it removes mineral build-up before colour is applied to prevent unpredictable results.
You do not need to filter your water at home. Reducing frequency and rinsing with cooler water at the end of your wash both reduce mineral and heat exposure in a practical, low-effort way.
Technique matters as much as frequency
Even if you are washing twice a week, the way you wash can accelerate or slow colour fade significantly.
- Use cooler water. Hot water opens the cuticle more aggressively and forces more pigment out per wash. Lukewarm is fine for washing. A final cool rinse at the end locks the cuticle down and adds shine immediately.
- Shampoo at the scalp, not the lengths. Colour fades fastest where shampoo is directly scrubbed in. Focus your shampoo on the scalp and let it rinse through the lengths. The lengths do not need to be scrubbed.
- Do not pile the hair on top of your head. Tangling coloured hair when it is wet and soapy causes mechanical breakage and cuticle damage. Let it hang or hold it gently and work your fingers through from root to tip.
- Use a sulphate-free shampoo. Sulphates are effective cleansers, which is the problem. They clean so aggressively they strip pigment and natural oils along with everything else. A sulphate-free formula cleans thoroughly enough while being gentler on the colour. We go deeper on how to choose one in our post on the best shampoo for coloured hair.
- Let conditioner do its job. Leave conditioner on for two to three minutes, not thirty seconds. Colour-treated hair needs real conditioning time, especially at the ends.
Between washes: making it work practically
The biggest objection I hear to washing less is "but my hair gets oily." Here is what actually helps:
- Dry shampoo at the root on day two. Applied the night before, it absorbs overnight and your hair looks fresh in the morning without any visible residue.
- A loose braid or low bun on day two or three. Oily hair looks fine when it is up. It does not look like you skipped washing, it looks intentional.
- Change your pillowcase regularly. A cotton pillowcase absorbs oils from your scalp and puts them back in your hair. A silk or satin pillowcase reduces this significantly.
- Rinse without shampoo on a hot day. If your scalp is sweaty and uncomfortable, a water rinse with no shampoo refreshes it without stripping colour. Follow with conditioner on the ends if they feel dry.
When should you wash more, not less?
There are situations where washing more frequently is the right call. If you exercise heavily every day, if you have a scalp condition that requires medicated or frequent cleansing, or if you work in a physically demanding or dusty environment, daily washing may genuinely be necessary. In those cases, a very gentle, sulphate-free formula and a consistent bond treatment add-on can minimise the damage. Talk to your stylist about how to manage it for your specific situation.
Frequently asked questions
How soon after colouring can I wash my hair?
Wait at least 48 hours, ideally 72. The cuticle is slightly open in the first few days after a colour service and pigment is at its most vulnerable to washing out. The longer you wait for the first wash, the better your colour holds long-term.
Does washing with cold water actually help colour last?
Yes. Cold or lukewarm water keeps the cuticle more closed than hot water, which means less pigment escapes per wash. You do not need to torture yourself in a freezing shower, but turning the temperature down noticeably from what you would normally use makes a real difference over the lifespan of a colour.
Is dry shampoo bad for coloured hair?
Used reasonably and not as a permanent substitute for washing, no. Build-up from dry shampoo on the scalp can be an issue if it is never properly washed out, which is another reason not to eliminate shampooing entirely. Use it between washes, not instead of them, and make sure your scalp gets a proper cleanse regularly.
Why does my colour fade so fast even though I barely wash?
Fade can come from heat styling, sun exposure, hard water, and using the wrong products, not just washing frequency. If your colour is fading unusually fast even with low wash frequency, it is worth talking to your colourist about whether your hair is highly porous, whether a bond treatment at your next appointment would help, or whether your home products have ingredients that are stripping your tone.
Does swimming fade coloured hair?
Chlorine is harsh on colour and is particularly damaging to blonde and lightened hair. If you swim regularly, wet your hair thoroughly with plain water before entering the pool so it absorbs less chlorine, use a swim cap if possible, and shampoo and condition thoroughly straight after. A bond treatment in your routine helps counteract the damage over time.
Can I use any shampoo on coloured hair?
You can, but the results will not be the same. Regular shampoos, particularly those with sulphates, strip colour faster. A sulphate-free or colour-specific formula is worth using on coloured hair. Beyond that, the specific choice depends on your hair type, scalp condition and colour, which is a conversation worth having with your stylist at your next appointment.